Hello Lovely,
Picture a chilly November morning in 1955. The pavements are damp, there’s a definite nip in the air and you’ve spent far too long setting your hair to let the weather ruin it. Time to reach for your best wool coat, pull on a pair of gloves and hope your carefully arranged curls survive the journey.
Winter dressing in the 1950s had its practicalities, even if the fashion magazines preferred to show us women looking immaculate in the middle of a snowstorm. And while we tend to associate the decade with full circle skirts, pretty dresses and immaculate little cardigans, winter brought a rather different wardrobe. Heavy wool coats, sensible knitwear, tailored trousers, felt hats and plenty of layers all had their place.
So, what did women actually wear in winter during the 1950s? Wool coats in fitted or loose silhouettes were the mainstay of a fashionable winter wardrobe, worn over dresses, skirts and jumpers or, for more casual occasions, trousers. Hats, scarves, gloves and stockings provided extra warmth, while sturdy footwear came out when the weather turned particularly unpleasant. Of course, the clothes you wore depended on your age, budget, lifestyle and where you lived. A Parisian fashion model and a British woman waiting for the bus in January had rather different priorities. Let’s have a rummage through the winter wardrobe of the 1950s.
1950s Winter Fashion in Postwar Britain
Before getting carried away with sumptuous coats and glamorous accessories, it’s worth remembering what Britain was actually like at the beginning of the decade. Clothing rationing had only ended in March 1949, and the government’s Utility clothing scheme continued until 1953. Many families were still feeling the financial effects of the war, and a good winter coat represented a significant purchase. Clothes were bought with longevity in mind. A well made wool coat could be worn for several winters, altered when necessary and paired with different accessories to keep it looking fresh. Meanwhile, the fashion industry was busy encouraging women to embrace new styles.
Christian Dior had introduced his famous New Look in 1947, with its narrow waists, rounded shoulders and generous skirts. Its influence carried well into the 1950s, particularly during the first half of the decade. In April 1950, Dior held his first British fashion show at London’s Savoy Hotel. According to the Victoria and Albert Museum’s account of Dior in Britain, many of the 80 outfits shown were made using British wool and printed cottons. But fashion didn’t stand still for the entire decade. As the 1950s progressed, designers including Cristóbal Balenciaga began experimenting with straighter, roomier and less structured silhouettes. This meant there was considerably more variety in 1950s winter coats than the familiar tightly belted styles we often see in modern vintage reproductions.
1950s Winter Coats: The Most Important Part of the Wardrobe
If there’s one vintage garment I’d happily spend a little more money on, it’s a proper 1950s wool coat. There’s something wonderful about the weight of the fabric, the beautifully shaped collars and those enormous covered buttons. Even the linings can be rather lovely. Wool and tweed were particularly useful for winter outerwear, with wool blends, camel hair and more expensive fabrics such as cashmere also appearing in fashionable coats. Length varied, with some coats finishing around the knee and others falling to mid calf or lower. The cut depended partly on what was being worn underneath.
The Princess Coat: A Beautifully Defined Waist
The princess coat is perhaps the style most closely associated with the elegant, full skirted fashions of the early and middle 1950s. Its shape follows the body through the bust and waist before widening into a flared skirt. Princess seams, which run vertically through the garment, help create this fitted silhouette without always requiring a separate waist seam. These coats were particularly attractive over fitted dresses and full skirts, giving a beautifully balanced outline.
Details could include wide collars, large covered buttons, shaped cuffs and occasionally a coordinating belt. Some were single breasted, while others featured double breasted fastenings. A princess coat in deep navy, forest green or rich burgundy, teamed with leather gloves and a neat little hat, makes a gorgeous winter outfit. And a rather sensible investment if you’re building a vintage wardrobe around dresses and skirts.
The Swing Coat: Roomy, Dramatic and Rather Practical
Although the terms are sometimes used interchangeably, a swing coat isn’t quite the same as a princess coat. Where the princess coat emphasises the waist, the swing coat generally creates volume through a loose, flared body. Many examples fall generously from the shoulders or upper back, allowing the fabric to move as the wearer walks. That extra room was particularly useful when wearing the fuller skirts of the 1950s. It also meant you could get a cardigan or jumper underneath without feeling as though you’d been squeezed into a sausage casing.
For a lovely surviving example, have a look at the 1956 red wool swing coat in the London Museum collection. Designed by Harry B. Popper in London, it was made using the distinctive red wool associated with Grenadier Guards uniforms, complete with military inspired detailing and brass buttons. The coat was eventually sold to American fashion editor Sally Iselin, who took it back to the United States. It’s a wonderful reminder that 1950s coats could be playful and unusual, rather than simply beige, black or navy.
The Box Coat: A Relaxed Alternative
For women who preferred something less fitted, there was the box coat. Usually shorter than a full length winter coat, the boxy silhouette had a relatively straight, loose shape, sometimes with a slightly exaggerated shoulder or generous sleeves. These coats worked particularly well with narrower skirts, dresses and tailored trousers. Some had large patch pockets, others featured rounded collars or bold buttons. Wool tweeds and textured fabrics gave these simpler shapes a bit of personality.
I particularly like the contrast between a boxy coat and a slim pencil skirt. It feels unmistakably 1950s without looking overly dressed up. And if you prefer trousers, this is probably one of the easiest coat shapes to wear with a modern wardrobe.
The Cocoon Coat: A Glimpse of Fashion’s Future
By the later 1950s, fashionable coats were beginning to move away from the tightly defined waist. Cristóbal Balenciaga was central to this change. In 1957 he introduced his cocoon coat, part of his wider experimentation with volume and shape. The silhouette was rounded and generously cut, often wider through the body before narrowing towards the hem. It was rather different from Dior’s earlier hourglass proportions. The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s history of Balenciaga explains how his innovations helped establish a new silhouette for womenswear. These looser styles would become increasingly influential as fashion moved towards the 1960s.
Fur Coats and Fur Trims in the 1950s
We can’t really discuss 1950s winter fashion without mentioning fur. Real fur was closely associated with luxury, wealth and Hollywood glamour. Mink became particularly fashionable during the decade, appearing in coats, stoles, collars and cuffs. The Metropolitan Museum of Art notes that the mink coat became an especially recognisable symbol of fashionable wealth during the 1950s.
Of course, not every woman could afford a mink coat, nor would she necessarily have wanted one. For many, a wool coat with a fur collar offered a more accessible way of enjoying the fashionable look. Fur also appeared as detachable collars, cuffs and small accessories. Coats might be trimmed with contrasting textures, creating an attractive finish around the face and neckline.
It’s worth remembering that synthetic fibres were developing rapidly during this period, too. Artificial fur fabrics were already part of the wider textile market. Personally, if I were recreating the look today, I’d opt for a good vintage faux fur collar or secondhand coat rather than buying anything new made from animal fur. The visual effect can be every bit as fabulous.
What Did Women Wear Under Their Winter Coats?
Underneath all that lovely tailoring, everyday winter clothing was surprisingly familiar. Dresses, skirts, blouses, jumpers and cardigans formed the basis of many women’s wardrobes, with fabric choice and layering making the difference between a summer and winter outfit.
Wool Dresses and Winter Skirts
Wool dresses were a useful choice for colder months, especially in heavier fabrics that could hold their shape. Shirtwaist dresses, fitted bodices with flared skirts and slimmer sheath dresses all appeared in 1950s wardrobes. A knitted cardigan could be added for warmth.
Skirts were equally versatile. A wool pencil skirt worn with a blouse and cardigan created a neat outfit for work or shopping, while a fuller skirt could be paired with a fitted jumper. Tweed, checked wool and plain woollen fabrics were practical choices for winter. The great thing about these combinations was that the individual pieces could be worn in several ways. A different blouse, jumper or scarf could make an outfit feel quite different without the expense of buying another dress.
Jumpers, Cardigans and the Famous Twin Set
Knitwear was absolutely essential during the 1950s, and it’s one of the easiest parts of the decade’s fashion to wear today. Fitted jumpers with round, V shaped or higher necklines were worn with skirts and trousers. Cardigans could be buttoned neatly over a blouse or worn with a matching jumper to create a twin set. The twin set became one of the decade’s most recognisable combinations.
There was also a growing choice of fibres and colours. According to the Victoria and Albert Museum’s history of sweaters, the popularity of knitwear increased during the 1950s, thanks partly to the availability of new yarns and both commercially made and hand knitted garments. Wool was still an excellent choice for warmth, while newer synthetic yarns offered alternatives that could be easier to care for.
And knitting at home remained an important part of many wardrobes. A well chosen jumper pattern could produce something fashionable for considerably less than purchasing an expensive ready made garment. One of my favourite combinations is a fitted cream jumper tucked into a dark wool skirt, finished with a narrow belt and a little brooch. Simple, cosy and rather lovely.
Trousers Were Part of Winter Fashion Too
Despite what some vintage fashion illustrations might suggest, women did wear trousers in the 1950s. They were increasingly accepted for casual activities, leisure and practical situations, even if skirts and dresses were still expected in many formal or professional settings. Tailored slacks, cigarette trousers and fuller cut trousers could be worn with blouses, fitted jumpers and cardigans.
American sportswear designers had already helped popularise more relaxed women’s clothing, and Hollywood actresses provided plenty of inspiration for casual trousers and knitwear. For a cold weekend, wool trousers and a warm jumper made perfect sense. You could wear them for walking, travelling or spending time outdoors without having to contend with a full skirt blowing about in the wind. You can see more of the decade’s casual styles in my guide to 1950s preppy fashion.
Stockings, Petticoats and Winter Layers
There’s one rather important part of winter dressing that fashion photographs don’t always reveal. What went underneath. Women commonly wore stockings with skirts and dresses, with nylon stockings becoming increasingly familiar after the shortages of the war years. They were generally held up with a suspender belt or attached to foundation garments. Modern style tights were only beginning to emerge towards the end of the decade, becoming much more widespread during the 1960s. In fact, the Museum of Modern Art records that Glen Raven developed and patented its PantiLegs tights in 1959.
Slips, petticoats and other undergarments could provide extra layers beneath winter clothing, although their purpose was often as much about fit, modesty and silhouette as warmth. Nylon and other synthetic fabrics were increasingly used in these garments. For a modern interpretation, I’d happily swap the suspenders for a pair of warm tights. Historical accuracy is lovely, but so is having feeling in your legs.
1950s Winter Accessories: Hats, Scarves and Gloves
Accessories were an important part of fashionable 1950s dressing, particularly for women who wanted to make the most of a relatively small wardrobe. A hat or scarf could completely change the appearance of a coat, and gloves were both fashionable and useful during cold weather.
Hats: From Berets to Elegant Little Cloches
Hats were still associated with looking properly dressed, especially for more formal occasions. The V&A’s research into Balenciaga’s hats notes that formal etiquette continued to encourage hat wearing throughout the 1950s and 1960s. For winter, wool felt was particularly useful, alongside velvet, textured fabrics and fur or fur trimmed styles.
Popular shapes included berets, close fitting hats, small brimmed styles and pillbox hats. The cloche, so closely associated with the 1920s, also appeared in updated 1950s designs. Rather than the deep bell shapes of the earlier decade, fashionable versions could have different crown proportions, smaller brims and contemporary trimmings. Berets were an attractive casual option, while a neat pillbox or sculptural felt hat could finish a tailored outfit beautifully. Small veils, ribbons, decorative pins and bows added interest without necessarily needing a completely different hat.
Scarves and Shawls
A warm scarf was a practical essential, but it was also an opportunity to introduce colour or pattern into an outfit. Knitted wool scarves offered warmth, while silk squares could be tied around the neck or over the hair. Larger scarves and shawls could be draped around the shoulders, either as an extra layer indoors or beneath outerwear.
Headscarves were particularly handy when travelling, protecting carefully styled hair from wind and damp weather. And let’s be fair, when you’ve spent half the evening arranging pin curls, the last thing you want is a gust of wind undoing all your hard work. For a winter outfit today, I love the look of a silk headscarf tied beneath the chin, paired with a substantial wool coat and leather gloves.
Gloves: A Small Detail That Makes a Difference
Gloves were another useful accessory, with different styles suited to different occasions. Knitted wool gloves kept hands warm during everyday activities, while leather and suede versions offered a smarter finish. For dressier occasions, gloves could be coordinated with a handbag, hat or coat.
They were available in various lengths and colours, although shorter wrist length styles are particularly easy to incorporate into a winter wardrobe today. A little contrast can look wonderful. Think dark green gloves against a camel coat, or oxblood leather with a charcoal grey jacket. Add a brooch to your coat collar and you’re rather nicely turned out.
What Shoes Did Women Wear in Winter During the 1950s?
Footwear in the 1950s depended very much on the occasion and the weather. The beautifully shaped court shoes we associate with the decade were certainly popular, but they weren’t always the most sensible option for icy pavements or heavy snow.
Court Shoes, Flats and Loafers
For ordinary daytime dressing, leather court shoes were a familiar choice. Heel shapes varied throughout the decade, with low and medium heels worn alongside increasingly slender designs. Rounder toes were fashionable during parts of the decade, while more pointed styles also appeared.
Loafers and other flat leather shoes were useful for casual outfits, especially when worn with trousers or practical skirts. Younger women embraced casual shoes as part of a more relaxed approach to dressing. And despite the glamorous reputation of 1950s fashion, there were plenty of occasions when comfort mattered considerably more than looking like a model in Vogue.
Boots and Overshoes for Wet Weather
For particularly bad weather, boots and protective overshoes offered a more practical alternative to delicate leather shoes. Rubber galoshes could be pulled over ordinary footwear to protect it from rain, slush and mud. The Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History even holds a pair of women’s galoshes dated to the 1950s. Leather boots also existed, particularly for outdoor activities and colder conditions.
However, the tall, slim fashion boots that became such an important part of 1960s style weren’t yet an everyday fashion staple in the 1950s. If you’re recreating the look today, a sturdy pair of leather ankle boots is a perfectly sensible addition, even if you wouldn’t necessarily see the exact same style in a 1955 fashion illustration. Nobody needs to sacrifice their ankles for authenticity.
1950s Winter Fashion on the Ski Slopes
Now for something a little sportier. Ski clothing was changing quite dramatically during the 1950s, with developments in fabrics and construction allowing for more practical, fitted garments. Earlier skiing outfits had often involved relatively bulky wool trousers, knitted jumpers and heavy outerwear. By the 1950s, fashion and performance were becoming more closely connected.
The Rise of Fitted Ski Trousers
One particularly important development came from Maria Bogner, who introduced close fitting ski trousers in 1952. These trousers combined wool with a stretchable nylon fibre called Helanca, giving skiers a much neater silhouette than earlier, baggier styles. According to the ASU FIDM Museum’s history of ski fashion, by 1955 Bogner trousers were available in a variety of bright colours. They became popular with fashionable skiers and helped change the appearance of ski clothing. The slimmer trousers were often accompanied by warm jumpers, shorter jackets and practical winter accessories.
Ski Jackets, Knitwear and Accessories
Warmth and freedom of movement were essential on the slopes. Jackets, sometimes with zipped fastenings, could be worn over knitted layers. Wool jumpers remained useful, while fitted trousers helped prevent loose fabric getting in the way. Knitted hats, gloves, scarves and sturdy ski boots completed the outfit. Some ski clothing incorporated newer synthetic fibres, but it shouldn’t be confused with the sophisticated waterproof and breathable technical clothing available today.
What Colours and Fabrics Were Popular in 1950s Winter Clothing?
Although black, brown, navy and grey were practical winter colours, the decade wasn’t short of colour. Coats and winter separates could also be found in greens, reds, blues, pinks and other shades. Woollen checks, plaids and tweeds brought pattern and texture to winter clothes, while contrasting collars, buttons and trims provided decorative detail.
A particularly lovely surviving example is the green and brown plaid wool coat in the Museums Victoria collection. Made by Carmela Palermo and worn when she migrated from Italy to Australia in 1957, the coat features a brown velvet collar, cuffs and pocket flaps. It’s an excellent example of how a relatively simple wool coat could be made special through fabric and finishing details. And unlike a couture garment, this was a coat worn by a real woman in her everyday life. I find pieces like this especially interesting because they show us what people actually owned and wore.
How to Wear 1950s Winter Fashion Today
The lovely thing about 1950s winter clothing is how easily it can work with a modern wardrobe. You don’t need to recreate every detail or have an entire rail of original garments. Start with the shape of your coat, add some good knitwear and finish with accessories that suit your own style. Here are three outfits I’d happily wear now.
Everyday Vintage Winter
A dark wool pencil skirt, fitted cream jumper and a boxy tweed coat. Add thick tights, leather loafers or ankle boots, a wool scarf and a small handbag. Practical enough for everyday errands, but with enough vintage detail to make the outfit interesting.
A Properly Glamorous Winter Outfit
Start with a full skirted wool dress and a beautifully fitted princess coat. Add leather gloves, a small felt hat and a vintage brooch on the lapel. For footwear, choose smart boots or court shoes depending on the weather. This would be my choice for a winter afternoon tea, a special lunch or an occasion when I fancied making a bit more effort.
A Casual Weekend Look
Try high waisted wool trousers, a fitted roll neck and a generous swing coat. Finish with a beret, warm scarf and leather boots. It’s wonderfully comfortable and captures the relaxed side of 1950s fashion that sometimes gets overlooked. If you’re hunting for original garments or building a collection from scratch, have a look at my guide to the essential pieces of a 1950s wardrobe.
What to Look for When Buying a Vintage Winter Coat
Original 1950s coats can be beautiful pieces, but they’re worth inspecting carefully before buying.
Look for:
- A high wool content and fabric that still feels substantial
- Strong seams, particularly around the shoulders and armholes
- A lining without extensive damage or tearing
- Original buttons or fastenings that can be securely repaired
- Enough room to wear a jumper or cardigan underneath
- A shape that works with the skirts, dresses or trousers you already own
Check the measurements rather than relying on the size label, and remember that coats are often more expensive to alter than ordinary dresses. I’d also pay particular attention to moth damage. A tiny hole in a photograph can turn out to be rather more obvious when the coat arrives.
What coats were popular in the 1950s?
Popular styles included fitted princess coats, loose swing coats and shorter box coats. Towards the end of the decade, roomier silhouettes such as the cocoon coat also became fashionable. Wool and tweed were useful fabrics for colder weather.
What did women wear to keep warm in the 1950s?
Women layered wool coats over dresses, skirts, jumpers and cardigans. Warm scarves, hats, gloves, stockings and practical footwear helped protect against the cold. The exact combination depended on the weather, occasion and what the wearer could afford.
Did women wear trousers in winter during the 1950s?
Yes. Trousers were increasingly accepted for casual wear, leisure and practical activities. Wool trousers, fitted jumpers and coats were suitable for colder weather, although dresses and skirts remained more conventional for many formal occasions.
Did women wear tights in the 1950s?
Stockings were much more typical throughout most of the decade. Early versions of modern tights began appearing towards the end of the 1950s, but they became considerably more popular during the 1960s.
Were 1950s winter clothes colourful?
Absolutely. Alongside practical dark neutrals, winter clothing appeared in red, green, blue and other colours. Checks, plaids, tweeds and decorative trims added variety to coats and separates.
Final Thoughts
There’s something particularly appealing about winter fashion from the 1950s. Perhaps it’s the substantial wool coats, the neat little hats or the attention given to details we sometimes overlook today. A lovely button, a contrasting velvet collar or a pair of coloured gloves can make such a difference. But what I find most interesting is how varied the decade actually was.
There were glamorous women in sweeping fur coats, of course, but there were also women in homemade wool jackets, practical trousers and cardigans knitted to see them through another British winter. And those everyday clothes deserve just as much attention as the couture. So, if you’re tempted to introduce a little 1950s style to your winter wardrobe, I’d start with a beautiful coat, some reliable knitwear and perhaps a vintage scarf or two. Nothing too complicated. Just good clothes, interesting details and a little personality.