Edith Head, a name always associated with Hollywood glamour, was a trailblazing costume designer whose influence spanned over five decades. With her signature round glasses and impeccable style, she not only dressed the stars but became one herself. Her journey from a modest upbringing to becoming the most celebrated costume designer in film history is both inspiring and fascinating.
Early Life and Education
Born Edith Clare Posener on October 28th, 1897 in San Bernardino, California, she was the daughter of a mining engineer. Her early years were marked by frequent relocations across Arizona, Nevada, and Mexico due to her father’s profession. Despite these moves, Edith’s passion for learning remained intact. She earned a Bachelor of Arts degree from the University of California, Berkeley, and later a Master of Arts degree in Romance languages from Stanford University. Initially, she embarked on a teaching career, instructing French at the Hollywood School for Girls. To supplement her income, she offered art classes, despite having little formal training in the field. This determination to seize opportunities would become a hallmark of her illustrious career.
Breaking into Hollywood
In 1923, Edith’s ambition led her to apply for a position as a sketch artist at Paramount Pictures. Lacking a formal background in art, she borrowed sketches from her students to showcase in her interview. Her audacity paid off. She secured the job and began her ascent into the world of costume design. Under the mentorship of Paramount’s lead designers, Howard Greer and later Travis Blanton, Edith honed her skills. By 1938, she had risen to the position of chief designer at Paramount, a role she held until 1967. Her tenure at Paramount solidified her reputation as a designer who could seamlessly blend an actor’s persona with the essence of their character.
Iconic Collaborations and Designs
Edith Head’s portfolio is a testament to her versatility and keen understanding of character portrayal through costume. She worked with some of Hollywood’s most illustrious directors and actors, creating timeless looks that have left an indelible mark on cinematic history.
One of her most celebrated collaborations was with director Alfred Hitchcock. Together, they created the wardrobes for classics like “Rear Window” (1954) and “To Catch a Thief” (1955). In “Rear Window,” Grace Kelly’s character, Lisa Fremont, exudes sophistication and allure, thanks in part to Edith’s elegant designs. The costumes not only complemented Kelly’s poise but also subtly reflected the film’s narrative tension.
Another standout moment in Edith’s career was designing for Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” (1953) and “Sabrina” (1954). In “Roman Holiday,” the transformation of Hepburn’s character from a sheltered princess to an independent woman was mirrored in the evolution of her clothing. The simple yet chic outfits became emblematic of Hepburn’s style and were instrumental in establishing her as a style icon.
Edith’s collaboration with Bette Davis in “All About Eve” (1950) further showcased her ability to encapsulate a character’s essence through clothing. The film’s costumes ranged from understated elegance to dramatic flair, perfectly capturing the complexities of Davis’s character, Margo Channing.
Accolades and Achievements
Edith Head’s contributions to cinema were recognised with an astounding eight Academy Awards for Best Costume Design, making her the most awarded woman in Oscar history. Her wins spanned both black-and-white and colour films, including “The Heiress” (1949), “Samson and Delilah” (1950), “All About Eve” (1950), “A Place in the Sun” (1951), “Roman Holiday” (1953), “Sabrina” (1954), “The Facts of Life” (1960), and “The Sting” (1973). Beyond her wins she garnered 35 nominations, a testament to her enduring excellence and influence in the industry.
Influence on Fashion and Pop Culture
Edith Head’s impact extended beyond the silver screen; she played a pivotal role in shaping mid-20th-century fashion. Her designs were not mere costumes but trendsetters that influenced everyday attire. The sarong dress she designed for Dorothy Lamour in “The Hurricane” (1937) sparked a nationwide fashion craze. Similarly, her work with Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn introduced styles that became staples in women’s fashion, such as the understated elegance seen in “Roman Holiday” and the chic sophistication of “Sabrina.”
Edith’s influence also permeated pop culture. The character Edna Mode from Pixar’s “The Incredibles” is widely believed to be inspired by Edith Head, from her distinctive appearance to her authoritative demeanour in the world of fashion. This homage underscores Edith’s lasting legacy and recognition as a cultural icon.
Personal Philosophy and Legacy
Edith Head was known for her pragmatic approach to design. She believed that costumes should serve the characters and the story, enhancing the actor’s performance without overshadowing it. This philosophy endeared her to many in the industry, as she prioritised collaboration and the narrative over personal acclaim. Her ability to adapt to changing fashion trends while maintaining a character-centric approach ensured her relevance throughout her long career.
Beyond her professional achievements, Edith authored two books: “The Dress Doctors” (1959) and “How to Dress for Success” (1967). These works offered fashion advice and insights, reflecting her desire to share her expertise with a broader audience.
Edith Head passed away on the 24th of October 1981, just days before her 84th birthday. Her legacy, however, endures. Her designs continue to inspire fashion enthusiasts and designers, and her story serves as a testament to the power of determination, creativity, and the pursuit of one’s passion.
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