The 1940s were a turbulent time, shaped by World War II and its aftermath, which had a significant influence on fashion. Many style subcultures of the era emerged in response to the constraints and challenges of wartime, as well as the changing roles of women in society. Here are some of the main fashion subcultures of the 1940s.
Utility Fashion
Location: Primarily in Europe, especially in the UK, and to a lesser extent in the US.
Style: Practical, minimalist, and designed to comply with wartime rationing and restrictions.
Key Elements:
- Simple silhouettes with minimal ornamentation.
- Materials like wool, cotton, and rayon; synthetic fabrics became common due to shortages.
- Cortes were designed to be durable and versatile, with standardised cuts.
Influences: Wartime rationing, government regulations (such as the British Utility Clothing Scheme), and the need for practicality in both work and domestic life.
Rosie the Riveter
Location: Primarily in the U.S.
Style: Functional and utilitarian clothing for women who took in industrial jobs during the war.
Key Elements:
- Overalls, denim trousers, and sturdy work boots.
- Bandanas to keep hair back, and more masculine clothing styles as women entered the workforce in factories and other traditionally male-dominated industries.
Influences: The wartime labour shortage, government campaigns encouraging women to enter the workforce, and changing gender roles.
The New Look (Post-War)
Location: France, in particular Paris.
Style: Ultra-feminine, elegant, and luxurious, emerging after the austerity of wartime fashion.
Key Elements:
- Rounded shoulders, cinched waists, and full, voluminous skirts.
- Fabrics like tulle, satin, and fine wool.
Influences: Christian Dior’s revolutionary “New Look” was introduced in 1947, which marked a return to opulence and femininity after years of wartime restrictions.
Pin-Up Style
Location: Primarily the U.S., but also popular in Europe.
Style: Glamorous and playful, this style was characterised by figure-hugging, flirty outfits often seen in posters and magazines featuring pin-up models.
Key Elements:
- Pencil skirts, fitted sweaters, high-waisted shorts, and bathing suits.
- Hairstyles with pin curls, red lipstick, and winged eyeliner.
Influences: Hollywood starlets like Betty Grable and Rita Hayworth, and the popularity of pin-up art during the war, providing a morale boost for soldiers.
Land Girls
Location: Primarily in the UK.
Style: Practical and rural, worn by women who worked in agriculture as part of the Women’s Land Army during the war.
Key Elements:
- Durable wool trousers, dungarees, knitted sweaters, and headscarves.
- Often seen in wellies or sturdy work boots for farming.
Influences: Wartime necessity, with women filling agriculture roles traditionally held by men who were fighting in the war.
Hollywood Glamour
Location: Primarily in the U.S., but influential worldwide.
Style: Luxurious, elegant, and inspired by film stars of the era.
Key Elements:
- Satin gowns, fur stoles, structured evening wear, and glamorous hair and makeup.
- Outfits with nipped in waists and padded shoulders.
Influences: The Golden Age of Hollywood, with stars like Lauren Bacall, Katherine Hepburn, and Ingrid Bergman setting the tone for glamorous evening wear. During the war, Hollywood glamour was an aspirational style, representing escapism from the harsh reality of everyday life.
The 1940s fashion subcultures were shaped by a world in conflict, balancing practicality with moments of glamour and self-expression. Many of these subcultures influenced the fashion trends of later decades, particularly the return to femininity in the late 1940s.
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