Fashion History – Jacques Fath

Jacques Fath was a prominent French designer, celebrated for his influence on post-World War II haute couture.

Early Life

Born on the 6th of September 1912, in Maisons-Laffitte, France, Fath hailed from an artistic lineage. Caroline and Georges Fath, his great-grandparents, were fashion illustrators and writers, and his grandfather, René-Maurice Fath was a landscape painter. Initially, Jacques Fath studied bookkeeping and law, briefly working as a stockbroker. However, his passion for creativity led him to explore drama and fashion.

Career

Launching his career in 1937, Jacques Fath opened a small studio in Paris, where he introduced his first collection. Despite lacking formal design training, he honed his skills by studying art books, fashion history, and museum exhibitions. His designs quickly caught the attention of Parisian elites for their fresh, youthful energy and refined elegance.

He is inspired. He has a vision. He will succeed.

Vogue Magazine

In 1939, Fath married Genevieve Boucher, a photographer’s model and former secretary to Coco Chanel. At a horse race society event, she wore an asymmetrical drape dress and fluttery cape designed by her husband, causing a store. For the first time Vogue reports on Fath. Jacques and Genevieve became one of the most photographed couples in Paris, with her celebrity status as a cover girl and him for his good looks and talent. Business quickly took off, but soon after World War II starts and Fath is drafted to serve the French army as a gunner second class. He is taken prisoner by the German forces just before Paris falls under the Occupation.

Genevieve Fath 1951
Jacques Fath and Genevieve
Jacques Fath and Genevieve

Following his short period of imprisonment, Jacques Fath returns to Paris and resumes control of the House of Fath. He joins other couturiers in keeping the city’s fashion pride alive, even while being closed off from the rest of the world. Finally Fath finds his first successes, using yards of tartan to mock the German occupiers, and designing a number of peasant skirts and tunics, which were feminine and sporty at the same time. Fath relocates his fashion houses and the couples son Philippe is born. During World War II, Fath was known for “wide, fluttering skirts,” which he created for the benefit of women forced to cycle during gasoline rationing.

Fath’s career gained momentum after World War II, when Paris regained its status as the world’s fashion capital. By the late 1940s, his fashion house was considered one of the “Big Three” of Parisian haute couture, alongside Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior. While Balmain was known for timeless sophistication and Dior for structured, sculptural garments, Fath’s designs stood out for their modern glamour and playful creativity. He catered to a chic, cosmopolitan clientele, offering clothing that highlighted the wearer’s sophistication and femininity.

Sackcloth dress with walnut shell sequins, Jacques Fath
Sackcloth jacket with walnut shell sequins, Jacques Fath

Fath was known for his innovative use of materials and unique embellishments. For instance, he created gowns made of hemp sacking or decorated gowns with sequins made from unusual materials like walnut shells. His designs embraced a sense of theatricality, and he wasn’t afraid to experiment with bold colours, dramatic cuts, and intricate details.

He makes you have sex appeal, and believe me that’s important.

Carmel Snow

One of Fath’s biggest achievements was his contribution to the popularity of the “New Look,” which emerged after the war. While it was Christian Dior’s debut correction in 1947 that officially coined the term, Fath’s designs also featured many of its hallmarks. His clothing reflected the sense of optimism and joy, aligning with society’s desire for luxury and beauty after the war.

Jacques Fath
Spring / Summer 1953
Jacques Fath
Spring / Summer 1956

In addition to his couture collections, Jacques Fath was an innovator for increasing his brand’s reach. He created ready-to-wear lines for the American market, recognising the demand for accessible, high-quality fashion. He also ventured into accessories and perfume, launching his fragrance “Iris Gris” in 1947, which became one of the most celebrated fragrances of the time.

Jacques and Genevieve used their celebrity status for marketing purposes. They were seen everywhere and held annual themed balls at their home the Chateau de Corbeville. These highly anticipated events had a guest list that topped 800, and included the press as well as society patrons and Hollywood stars. Genevieve was a personification of the 1950s desire for a return to femininity and style magazine editors were happy for her to take the lead.

One cannot understand the workings of haute couture without the realization that it is based on publicity.

Jacques Fath

The White and Red Ball held on the 15th of June 1951, is one of their most famous. With scenery recreating 18th-century masterpieces, with guests interpreting their own costumes for an 18th century white ball with ruby accessories. More than 400 guests attending, arriving one after the other to mingle with other tastemakers and fashionistas.

Even though the post war world was ready to embrace French fashion, the House of Fath had still not been embraced by the wealthy Americans over the sea. This prompted Jacques and Genevieve to make use of their celebrity status once again, and they travelled to the United States for a 3 month tour. Genevieve’s wardrobe consisted of 35 outfits for day and evening wear, 17 hats, 16 pairs of shoes, 10 handbags, 4 umbrella’s and various other accessories.

Fath’s influence extended beyond his own label. He had a keen eye for talent and mentored several young designers who would go on to shape the fashion world. Among his protégés were Hubert de Givenchy, who went on to found his own prestigious label, and Valentino Garavani, who became one of the most renowned Italian designers.

Throughout his career, Jacques Fath’s ability to blend innovation and wearability made him a favourite among Hollywood stars and European royalty. His clients included Ava Gardner, Greta Garbo, and Rita Hayworth, as well as socialites and aristocrats seeking the sophistication for which he was known.

A genius of fashion.

Marlene Dietrich
General Perón and Evita
Eva Perón in Jacques Fath

Jacques Fath also dressed Eva Perón. In one of the few remaining paintings from the 1940s and 1950s, Evita is depicted beside General Perón wearing a white evening dress designed by Fath.

Jacques Fath and his wife Genevieve

After being diagnosed with leukemia in 1952, Fath continued to design until his passing on the 13th of November 1954. Following his death, his wife Genevieve managed the fashion house, presenting her first collection in 1955. Despite her efforts, the house closed their haute couture operations in 1957. The brand later focused on perfumes and accessories, maintaining the Fath legacy in the fashion world.

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