Frederick’s of Hollywood is a name that goes hand in hand with provocative lingerie and daring fashion statements. Since its creation in the mid-20th century, the brand has been a cornerstone of American intimate apparel. Frederick’s journey from a single store to a nationwide phenomenon, shows how a vision and changing societal norms can change fashion forever.
Frederick Mellinger – The Visionary
When people meet me, they think I will be a seedy, old man. They are rather disappointed to find out that I’m not.
Frederick Mellinger
Born in 1913, Frederick Mellinger, often referred to as “Mr. Frederick,”was a pioneer in the lingerie industry. His early career began during the Great Depression when he worked for a mail-order company specialising in women’s undergarments. Mellinger proposed introducing black lingerie to the American market, a stark contrast to the traditional white underwear prevalent at the time. This suggestion was deemed too scandalous, which led to his dismissal. Undeterred, Mellinger enlisted in the U.S. Army during World War II, where he was exposed to European fashion sensibilities, particularly the French preference for more daring lingerie styles. This experience greatly influenced his future career.
Establishing Frederick’s of Hollywood
Come in looking like a Chevy, leave looking like a Cadillac.
Frederick Mellinger.
In 1946, following his military service, Mellinger returned to the United States with a vision to change women’s lingerie. He established his own mail-order business on New York’s Fifth Avenue, offering a range of intimate apparel that combined European chic and American sensibilities. Recognising the growing entertainment industry and liberal attitudes of the West Coast, Mellinger relocated the business to Hollywood Boulevard in 1947, rebranding it as Frederick’s of Hollywood. The flagship store, known for its distinctive Art Deco architecture and vibrant lavender facade, quickly attracting locals and tourists.
Innovations in lingerie design
Sex never goes out of fashion.
Frederick Mellinger
Frederick’s of Hollywoodwas at the forefront of several lingerie innovations. In 1947, the brand introduced the first padded bra, followed by the “Rising Star” push-up bra in 1948, which was one of its most iconic products. These designs enhanced the female silhouette and empowered women to embrace their sensuality. Frederick’s continued to innovate, launching the padded girdle in 1951, the push-up bikini in 1958, and the thong knicker in 1981. Beyond undergarments, a range of risqué accessories was also available, including stiletto-heeled boots and provocative hosiery, solidifying its reputation as a bold and seductive fashion brand.
Outside of products, Frederick’s innovated with their advertising strategy in the 1950s, marketing in both men’s and women’s magazines which proved very successful. Many of Mellinger’s achievements were owed to his understanding of women, and how lingerie could make them feel beautiful and desirable. This understanding coupled with the brands association with Hollywood glamour, led women to seek out his lingerie.
Expansion and Challenges
By the 1970s, Frederick’s of Hollywood had expanded beyond its flagship store, establishing a new mail-order business and opening retail outfits across the United States.at its peak, the company operated over 200 stores, offering a wide range of products from lingerie to outerwear. During this decade, a societal challenge to the brand was seen, with women demonstrating and burning their bras outside the flagship store. Mellinger had enough media sense to declare in public that the “law of gravity will win out.” This was an incredible coup, leading to sales of the lingerie soaring across America.
However, the rise of competitors like Victoria’s Secret in the 1980s introduced a bigger challenges. Victoria’s Secret’s approach of making lingerie soft and delicate instead of hard and raunchy appealed to a more mainstream clientele, a reflection of the shift in consumer preferences. Despite their efforts to modernise and diversify, Frederick’s faced financial difficulties and filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in 2000.
Reinvention and Digitalisation
They (lingerie) doesn’t just cover the body, they take the good parts and enhances them.
Frederick Mellinger
In 2015, Frederick’s of Hollywood closed all its physical retail stores, transitioning to an online-only model. The brand was acquired by Authentic Brand Group and relaunched as FOH Online Corp, a web shop. This shift allowed Frederick’s to reach a global audience, adapting to the changing retail landscape. In 2018, Naked Brand Group Inc. acquired FOH, aiming to revitalise the brand and increase its digital presence. Today, Frederick’s of Hollywood offers a range of lingerie and intimate apparel, staying true to its legacy of bold, provocative designs while embracing modern trends and technologies.
Cultural Impact
The brand’s daring designs and flagship Hollywood location attracted celebrities, cementing their status in popular culture. Stars like Marilyn Monroe and Madonna were known to be wearers of Frederick’s creations, bringing the brand into the limelight. The store’s proximity to the entertainment industry allowed it to supply costumes for film and television, making its products associated with glamour and allure. Frederick’s of Hollywood also played a role in shaping America’s attitude to lingerie and women’s sexuality, boldly showcasing underwear as a symbol of strength and self-confidence during a time when these topics were taboo.
From its inception in the 1940s to its evolution into a digital retailer, Frederick’s of Hollywood has remained a significant player in the lingerie industry. Frederick Mellinger was a visionary who saw the potential of intimates to inspire and empower. Despite facing challenges and competitors, the brand’s commitment to bold design and innovation has ensured its continued presence in the fashion world.