Hello Lovely,
There’s something rather irresistible about a woman who drives a red convertible, wears enormous flower-covered hats to afternoon tea and somehow finds time to apply absolutely perfect turquoise eyeshadow before causing complete chaos.
Meet Elaine. She’s beautiful, impeccably dressed and, unfortunately for the men who cross her path, rather dangerous. Played by Samantha Robinson in Anna Biller’s 2016 film The Love Witch, Elaine looks as though she’s wandered straight out of a late 1960s fashion magazine. Her wardrobe is a delicious mixture of romantic dresses, bold colours, vintage jewellery and that wonderfully dramatic glamour you find in old horror films. But there’s considerably more going on beneath those fabulous clothes.
Biller designed the film’s costumes herself, using genuine vintage garments, old sewing patterns and references ranging from 1960s cinema sirens to Victorian romance and early 1970s prairie dresses. The result is one of the most fascinating examples of vintage fashion influencing modern film costume design. And frankly, I could spend hours looking at the clothes alone.
A note about Anna Biller
Before we get into the fabulous frocks, there’s something I want to acknowledge. Anna Biller has faced criticism for comments about transgender and nonbinary people, with some critics describing her as a TERF, meaning trans exclusionary radical feminist. LGBTQ+ publication INTO reported on the controversy in July 2022. Biller subsequently stated publicly in April 2024 that she believes trans people should have equal rights.
I don’t agree with trans exclusionary views, and I want to be clear that Oh So Delightful supports trans and nonbinary people. Everyone deserves to feel welcome here, regardless of their gender identity. I can appreciate the extraordinary costume design and vintage fashion references in The Love Witch without endorsing the views that have caused controversy around its creator. After all, my philosophy has always been vintage vibes, not vintage values.
Now, back to those fabulous frocks.
What Is The Love Witch About?
The Love Witch follows Elaine Parks, a beautiful young witch who moves to a new town following the mysterious death of her husband. Desperate to find a man who will love her completely, Elaine creates spells and potions intended to inspire romantic devotion.
Unfortunately, things don’t quite go according to plan. The film combines horror, dark comedy and romantic melodrama, exploring ideas about love, femininity, sexuality and the expectations placed upon women. Visually, it looks like something made decades earlier.
Shot on 35mm film by cinematographer M. David Mullen, The Love Witch uses saturated colours, theatrical lighting and carefully composed images associated with classic Hollywood and mid-century cinema. You could easily mistake it for a forgotten Technicolor thriller from the 1960s.
That was part of Biller’s artistic intention, although the story itself takes place in a stylised contemporary world. Mobile phones and modern details occasionally appear amongst the vintage cars, old-fashioned interiors and fabulous clothes. The contrast is deliberate. As Biller explained in an interview with Interview Magazine, she was particularly interested in recreating classical Hollywood cinema from a woman’s perspective. That distinction becomes rather important when you look at Elaine’s wardrobe.
Anna Biller and the Vintage Fashion Behind The Love Witch
One of the most remarkable things about The Love Witch is the sheer amount of work that went into creating its visual world. Alongside writing, directing and editing the film, Biller designed the costumes and sets, sourced furnishings, made props and created many garments herself. This was a project built with an extraordinary attention to detail.
In a 2017 interview with Bright Lights Film Journal, Biller discussed how she used vintage sewing patterns when creating Elaine’s wardrobe. Her aim was to imagine how a glamorous witch might have dressed during the 1960s. Rather than limiting herself to one particular fashion movement, she combined different influences that reflected the character’s personality. There’s the polished glamour of 1960s movie stars, the flowing hair and mystical imagery of the late Sixties, the romantic prairie dresses popular during the 1970s and elements borrowed from much older historical fashions.
Biller also referenced photographs of occult figures from the 1960s, including Alex and Maxine Sanders, alongside vintage pulp novels and illustrations. Some pieces were original vintage finds. Others were altered or created from scratch. It’s a rather wonderful reminder of how much genuine craftsmanship goes into costume design.
The 1960s Glamour Behind Elaine’s Look
Elaine’s appearance owes a great deal to the glamorous actresses and models of the 1960s. In an interview with Thea Basiliou, Biller named two particular influences: Brigitte Bardot and Claudia Cardinale. Both actresses became internationally recognised for their striking beauty during the late 1950s and 1960s, although their individual styles were quite different.
Bardot was famous for her heavily lined eyes, voluminous hair and sensual, sometimes deliberately undone appearance. Cardinale often favoured similarly dramatic eye makeup, beautifully styled hair and the polished glamour of European cinema. Elaine borrows elements from both.
Her long black hair has an almost exaggerated fullness, while her eyes are defined with strong eyeliner, colourful shadow and generous false lashes. Her appearance is carefully maintained. Nothing looks accidental. But where Bardot’s beauty could have a slightly tousled, carefree quality, Elaine is much more controlled. Every detail feels deliberate, from her perfectly styled hair to the matching accessories she chooses. It’s an interesting contrast, particularly considering how chaotic her romantic life becomes. For more of the real fashion and beauty behind this look, I’ve explored Bardot’s signature style in my Get the Look: Brigitte Bardot guide.
Gunne Sax and the Romantic Dresses of the 1970s
Now, this is where the fashion history gets particularly lovely. Some of the most memorable dresses in The Love Witch were inspired by, or actually made by, Gunne Sax. If you’re familiar with 1970s vintage fashion, you’ll probably recognise the name. Gunne Sax began in San Francisco during the late 1960s and became especially associated with designer Jessica McClintock, who joined the company in 1969.
Its dresses were wonderfully romantic, borrowing details from Victorian, Edwardian and prairie clothing. Think high necklines, lace-trimmed bodices, delicate floral prints, long skirts, fitted waists and sleeves with a generous amount of fabric. The sort of dresses you might imagine wearing whilst wandering through a wildflower meadow, preferably with absolutely no responsibilities.
According to the ASU FIDM Museum’s history of 1970s Gunne Sax dresses, the designs reflected a broader shift towards historical nostalgia during the late 1960s and early 1970s. Fashion was becoming increasingly interested in handmade details, romantic silhouettes and clothing inspired by earlier centuries. The museum also notes that Gunne Sax dresses often used thoroughly modern fabrics despite their old-fashioned appearance. An interesting little reminder that vintage clothes aren’t always quite what they first appear.
Why Gunne Sax Worked So Beautifully for Elaine
Biller explained to The Criterion Collection that she chose vintage Gunne Sax dresses because of Elaine’s intense romantic fantasies. The high collars, lace and long skirts created a deliberately idealised vision of femininity. Elaine wants a fairytale romance, and her clothes frequently make her look as though she’s already living in one.
Those pretty dresses also create a slightly unsettling contrast with her increasingly disturbing behaviour. You see the lace, the sweet colours and the enormous flowers on her hat. Then you remember what she does with those love potions. Rather changes the atmosphere, doesn’t it?
The Most Memorable Costumes in The Love Witch
One of the cleverest aspects of the costume design is the way Elaine’s clothing changes according to her emotions and the situations she finds herself in. Biller wasn’t simply choosing attractive vintage outfits. She was using colour and clothing to tell us something about Elaine.
The Red Dress: Danger in Broad Daylight
One of the film’s most recognisable images shows Elaine driving a red convertible, wearing a bright red dress with matching accessories. It’s a simple outfit compared with some of her more elaborate costumes. The dress has a short hemline, long sleeves and a clean silhouette, giving it a distinctly 1960s feeling. But the colour is doing a great deal of work.
Biller explained in Bright Lights Film Journal that she deliberately matched Elaine’s outfit to her car. She also described red as one of the colours associated with danger throughout the film. Even when Elaine is going about her ordinary business, the warning signs are already there.
The fashion connection: Simple minidresses and bold, solid colours were fashionable during the middle and later 1960s, particularly amongst younger women. For a wearable modern interpretation, a red shift dress with a small structured handbag and knee-high boots would capture the mood beautifully. And if you fancy incorporating a little more Swinging Sixties style into your wardrobe, my guide to wearing 1960s fashion on the high street has plenty of ideas.
The Pink Tearoom Outfit: A Victorian Daydream
Oh, the tearoom scene. If you’ve ever wanted an excuse to wear a spectacular hat covered in flowers, this might be your moment. Elaine arrives wearing a pale peach Victorian-inspired dress with lace detailing and an enormous pink hat decorated with flowers. The entire room is awash with shades of pink, from the tablecloths and furnishings to the clothing worn by the women around her. It’s gloriously excessive.
Biller explained that she wanted the tearoom to represent an exaggerated version of feminine romantic fantasy. Elaine’s outfit fits perfectly into that world. The delicate fabric, elaborate trimmings and huge floral hat create the impression of someone dressing for an imaginary romantic occasion rather than an ordinary afternoon out.
The fashion connection: This outfit draws particularly strongly on the nostalgic dresses popular during the late 1960s and 1970s, including Gunne Sax designs. The historical inspiration is Victorian, but the clothes themselves belong to a much later fashion revival. An important difference if you’re shopping for genuine vintage.
The White Dress: A Bride in Waiting
Another particularly interesting costume appears towards the end of the film. Elaine wears a short white dress with a high collar, combining a distinctly Mod silhouette with older, more romantic details. Biller explained that the colour was intentional.
Elaine has become increasingly convinced that marriage might finally provide the happiness she wants, and the white clothing reflects her fantasies of becoming a bride. The dress also contrasts with the black clothing worn by her friend Trish. It’s a small but revealing piece of visual storytelling.
The fashion connection: Short, high-necked dresses were a familiar part of 1960s fashion, while the romantic styling provides a connection with historical revival clothing. It’s a wonderful example of how two different fashion influences can work together in the same garment.
The Final Red Gown: A Rather Dramatic Statement
Without spoiling too much, Elaine’s later appearance in a long red dress is one of the strongest costume choices in the film. The dress has a theatrical quality, with its bold colour and romantic silhouette. Biller revealed that she was thinking about the red dress worn by Scarlett O’Hara in Gone with the Wind, particularly its association with defiance and public scandal.
For Elaine, red becomes an expression of power and transgression. It’s a fascinating reference because it reaches beyond 1960s fashion into the history of Hollywood costume design itself. The film’s visual influences aren’t confined to a single decade. They’re layered together, often in ways you might not notice until you start looking more closely.
The Medieval and Renaissance Influences
Alongside the 1960s and 1970s clothing, The Love Witch also includes elaborate costumes inspired by the Italian Renaissance. These appear during the film’s Summer Solstice Faire sequence, where Elaine participates in a fantasy wedding ceremony. For this scene, Biller researched 15th-century Italian clothing.
She chose the period partly because its flowing garments could be made adjustable for actors who hadn’t yet been cast. The costumes required layers of fabric, handmade accessories, decorative trimmings and elaborate headwear. Biller also drew visual inspiration from Renaissance paintings and the Rider-Waite tarot deck.
The result is deliberately theatrical, with bright colours and flowing garments that give the sequence a storybook quality. It also connects rather neatly with the historical clothing revivals of the late 1960s and 1970s. During this period, fashion became increasingly interested in medieval, Renaissance and Victorian-inspired styles. But these were modern interpretations of historical dress, often combining elements from different centuries. And that is exactly what makes Elaine’s wardrobe so interesting.
The Love Witch Makeup: Turquoise Eyeshadow and Enormous Lashes
We really do need to talk about the makeup. Because if there’s one beauty detail that immediately identifies The Love Witch, it’s that extraordinary eye makeup. Elaine’s signature look features brightly coloured eyeshadow, strong black liner, thick lashes and softly coloured lips. Turquoise and blue shades are especially memorable, although her makeup changes throughout the film. The overall effect is unmistakably inspired by the 1960s.
Where Did the Makeup Inspiration Come From?
Biller worked with makeup artist Emma Willis to develop Elaine’s appearance. In her interview with Thea Basiliou, she explained that she wanted to recreate the glamorous women seen on late 1960s movie posters and pulp novel covers. Bardot and Cardinale were important references, particularly for the combination of heavy eyeliner, dramatic lashes and voluminous hair. Unlike the more innocent, doll-like Mod makeup associated with Twiggy, Elaine’s eyes have a slightly sultrier quality.
The eyeliner is strong, the lashes are substantial and the eyeshadow is deliberately noticeable. Her lips, meanwhile, are relatively understated, often appearing in soft peach, coral or pink tones. The contrast keeps the attention firmly on her eyes. If you fancy exploring the original looks, my 1960s makeup guide covers the colours, techniques and changing beauty trends of the decade.
How to Recreate The Love Witch Makeup
You don’t need to recreate every detail for everyday wear, although there’s certainly nothing stopping you. For an Elaine-inspired look:
- Create a smooth base. Use a lightweight foundation or skin tint, building coverage only where needed. Finish with a little powder to create a softly polished complexion.
- Apply a colourful eyeshadow. Choose turquoise, powder blue or lilac and blend it across the lid. Keep the colour noticeable rather than blending it away completely.
- Define the upper lash line. Use black liquid eyeliner to create a clean line with a small outward flick.
- Add plenty of lashes. False lashes give the strongest effect, but a good volumising mascara works for a more wearable interpretation.
- Keep your eyebrows defined. Elaine’s brows are carefully shaped and help frame her dramatic eyes.
- Finish with a soft lip colour. Peach, coral or pink lipstick will balance the heavier eye makeup beautifully.
Biller confirmed that the original makeup team used products from Shiseido, alongside cream eyeshadow, liquid eyeliner, false lashes and mascara. You don’t need those exact products to recreate the effect. The important details are colour, definition and the contrast between the eyes and lips. And perhaps a slightly mysterious expression, although that’s entirely optional.
The Love Witch Hair: 1960s Volume and Hollywood Glamour
Elaine’s hair is almost as recognisable as her makeup. Long, dark and exceptionally full, it has the kind of volume that makes you wonder whether the laws of gravity have been temporarily suspended. The hairstyle draws from the glamorous, heavily styled hair worn by actresses during the 1960s. Biller specifically mentioned Bardot and Cardinale as references, describing the use of additional hairpieces to create height and fullness.
For the film, she and Samantha Robinson went shopping for wigs before settling on Elaine’s distinctive appearance. That explains why the hair looks so consistently luxurious. It’s a carefully constructed screen image rather than an ordinary wash-and-go hairstyle.
How to Get Elaine’s Hairstyle
For a modern interpretation, concentrate on smooth lengths with plenty of height at the crown.
- Start with dry hair and create a centre or slightly off-centre parting.
- Use large rollers or a round brush to add volume through the crown and lengths.
- Backcomb gently beneath the top layers to build height.
- Smooth the upper layer over the backcombed section.
- Create loose bends or waves through the ends.
- Finish with a flexible hairspray to hold the shape without making it look stiff.
If you have finer hair, a discreet hairpiece or clip-in extensions can help create additional fullness. The aim is glamorous rather than messy, with that distinctly 1960s combination of polished styling and generous volume.
Why The Love Witch’s Colours Are So Important
There’s a reason the film is filled with such strong colour combinations. Biller developed much of the visual palette using symbolism associated with tarot cards and witchcraft. The colours change according to the atmosphere of each scene and Elaine’s emotional state. Red frequently represents danger, sexuality and transgression. Pink is associated with romantic fantasy and idealised femininity. Purple and blue appear throughout the more mystical settings, while white becomes connected with Elaine’s ideas about purity and marriage. Black, meanwhile, carries darker associations with magic and death.
Biller discussed these colour choices in detail in her interviews with Bright Lights Film Journal and The Criterion Collection. The costumes are part of this carefully controlled visual scheme. It’s why Elaine’s red dress looks so striking against her red car, or why the pink tearoom feels almost overwhelmingly feminine. The clothes help establish what we’re supposed to feel before anyone has said a word. And because the film’s romantic imagery becomes increasingly unsettling, those pretty colours start to take on rather different meanings.
Fashion, Femininity and the Darker Side of The Love Witch
One of the most interesting things about The Love Witch is the relationship between Elaine’s appearance and her desire to be loved. She spends enormous amounts of time making herself beautiful. Her hair is immaculate. Her makeup is perfect. Her clothes are carefully chosen. But she’s also deeply unhappy.
Elaine’s romantic fantasies are shaped by ideas about what men want and what a woman must do to make herself desirable. Her clothes become part of the identity she’s created, a beautiful, glamorous woman who believes that being loved will finally make her complete. Biller uses all those romantic dresses and carefully arranged curls to explore the pressure women can feel to perform femininity.
And there’s a certain irony in watching a woman with extraordinary supernatural abilities devote so much energy to finding the approval of men. The film also gives us Trish, whose more practical clothing provides an interesting contrast with Elaine’s elaborate outfits. In the tearoom, for example, Trish wears a trouser suit while Elaine dresses in her extraordinarily romantic gown and flower-covered hat. They’re both fashionable, but they’re presenting very different versions of womanhood. That contrast makes the costumes far more interesting than a simple collection of beautiful vintage dresses.
There’s also an interesting question about how femininity itself is portrayed. The film places considerable emphasis on bodies, fertility, heterosexual desire and traditional ideas about masculine and feminine energies. Those themes deserve scrutiny, particularly when considering how restrictive definitions of womanhood can exclude trans women and other people whose lives don’t fit neatly into those categories. For me, the pleasure of vintage fashion comes from having the freedom to express yourself, whether that’s through a lace-trimmed prairie dress, a beautifully tailored suit or anything in between. No one should have to conform to a particular version of femininity to feel beautiful or belong.
How to Wear The Love Witch Style Today
You certainly don’t need to dress exactly like Elaine to enjoy the fashion. In fact, some of the film’s best styling ideas are surprisingly easy to borrow.
For Everyday 1960s Glamour
Start with a simple red dress, preferably with a clean neckline and minimal decoration. Add black tights, low-heeled boots and a small structured handbag. Finish with defined eyeliner and a little volume through your hair. The effect is unmistakably vintage without being overly theatrical.
For Romantic 1970s Style
Look for a Gunne Sax-inspired dress with lace, delicate floral prints, a high neckline or softly gathered sleeves. A long midi or maxi length makes the style particularly wearable. Pair it with ankle boots and an old-fashioned pendant. For more inspiration, take a look at my Get the Look: Stevie Nicks guide, which explores another wonderfully romantic side of 1970s fashion.
For a Rather Fabulous Evening Look
Choose a long red or burgundy dress with interesting sleeves, a high neckline or lace details. Add a dramatic ring, softly waved hair and plenty of eyeliner. It’s an easy way to capture Elaine’s darker glamour without appearing as though you’re on your way to conduct a questionable ritual. If you prefer your vintage style with even more darkness, my romantic goth vintage style guide explores similar ideas using velvet, lace and historical silhouettes.
Who designed the costumes for The Love Witch?
Anna Biller designed the costumes for The Love Witch (2016). She also wrote, directed, produced and edited the film, and was responsible for its production design. She sourced vintage clothing, altered garments and made many costumes herself.
What decade is The Love Witch fashion inspired by?
The film is primarily influenced by 1960s and 1970s fashion, particularly glamorous late 1960s beauty looks and romantic early 1970s dresses. It also incorporates Victorian, Edwardian and Renaissance-inspired clothing. The story itself is set in a stylised contemporary world rather than the actual 1960s.
What dresses does Elaine wear in The Love Witch?
Elaine wears a mixture of short 1960s-inspired dresses, vintage Gunne Sax garments, romantic long gowns and historically inspired costumes. Some pieces were original vintage finds, while others were designed or altered by Anna Biller.
How do you recreate The Love Witch makeup?
Elaine’s signature makeup features colourful blue or turquoise eyeshadow, strong black eyeliner, dramatic lashes and soft peach or pink lipstick. Director Anna Biller and makeup artist Emma Willis developed the look using references from 1960s cinema glamour.
Is The Love Witch based on 1960s horror films?
The film draws on several cinematic traditions, including classic Hollywood melodramas, 1960s thrillers, horror films and older romantic cinema. Biller has also cited vintage pulp illustrations, historical occult imagery and classical filmmaking techniques as important influences.
What is Gunne Sax fashion?
Gunne Sax was a fashion label established in San Francisco during the late 1960s. It became famous during the 1970s for romantic dresses featuring lace, ribbons, floral fabrics, long skirts and details inspired by Victorian, Edwardian and prairie clothing.
Final Thoughts
I think what makes The Love Witch so fascinating is the extraordinary care that went into creating its vintage world. You can see the influence of 1960s movie stars in Elaine’s makeup, the romanticism of 1970s Gunne Sax dresses in her wardrobe and much older historical fashions in the film’s more theatrical moments. And all of those influences have been brought together to create a character who is visually unforgettable.
The film’s beauty is worth exploring, even while questioning the ideas associated with its creator. Appreciating an artistic achievement doesn’t mean agreeing with everything the artist believes. For me, vintage fashion is about creativity, history and the pleasure of expressing who you are. It’s something everyone should be able to enjoy, without being told that their identity makes them any less deserving of a place in the conversation.
So if you’re tempted to try a little Love Witch glamour yourself, I’d suggest starting with the turquoise eyeshadow and a rather fabulous vintage dress. Perhaps give the love potions a miss, though.
Until next time, stay delightful darling.
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